With considerable thought!
I was a participant on Susan Khalje’s Paris Couture Tour in mid-March. I dutifully checked the expected weather in central and northern France for that time of year (Mr. Fifty Dresses and I were spending a week in Normandy and Brittany prior to the Paris component, which meant even more thought). Chilly, rainy, breezy were the parameters most often appearing in my weather search. Add to that the fact I did not want to look too Wintry nor too Springy, and, well, I was quite in a quandary!
Fortunately, Susan provided us with some guidelines for the type of clothing we would need. This included day wear for our scooting around Paris to see exhibits, fabric stores, specialty stores, museums, etc. She indicated that dress in Paris is “noted” so I took that to mean we needed to look “sharp” and “put-together.” We also would have two days with special visitors and demonstrations in the hotel. Again we didn’t need to be all dolled up, but we needed to look presentable. And then there were those special nights out. For those we would need dressy clothes – for a night at the Ballet at the Palais Garnier, a Gala dinner at a fancy restaurant, and an evening at a fashion show in a private Paris apartment.
Of course, I decided I needed a least a couple of new things to wear. And of course, that meant sewing. I started in mid-January, making a muslin for this dress (pictured in green):
Before I started on the actual dress, however, I thought I would resurrect a pink wool jacket I had purchased 20 years ago. Made in France, with some amazing details and handwork, the jacket had hung in my cedar closet for over 12 years, unworn. Its color and weight, however, seemed to be perfect for Paris in March.
When I tried it on, the shoulders were much too pronounced for today’s sensibilities. Undaunted, I knew I could easily remove the hand stitched lining from around the top and sides of the shoulder armhole area. I could see how the shoulder pads were configured and make adjustments. I plowed forward, expecting this project to take no more than one day.
No wonder those shoulders were so pronounced! There were four layers of padding, all custom cut and applied to each shoulder cap. I took out three layers for starters. I knew I needed some definition, and that seemed to do the trick. If I had been starting from scratch, I probably would have used even less padding, but this was acceptable to me.
What I had not anticipated was the fact that removing such a depth of shoulder padding had implications for the sleeve length. There was no way around the realization I was going to have to shorten the sleeves – or not wear this jacket in Paris – or anywhere, for that matter. Suddenly what promised to be a quick fix had morphed itself something much more time-consuming.
One of the beautiful details of this jacket was the applied tailored cuff on each sleeve. Shortening the sleeve was going to have to be in two parts.
I buckled down and removed the cuff on the first sleeve. I had determined I needed to reduce the sleeve length by 7/8 of an inch. I was worried the circumference of the sleeve end might “grow” enough to make the applied cuffs too skimpy. By now I was asking myself how I got myself into this? I was spending all sorts of time on this jacket when I had whole garments to sew. But it was too late to back down at this point. I cut off the necessary length from the sleeve and its lining, stitching them back together by hand. I then had to redo some top-stitching and found some thread which was a close match to the existing thread. Then I re-applied the cuffs by hand. Fortunately, they were split cuffs, so they had some “give” and molded nicely to the slightly larger circumference of the sleeve.
One down and one to go before I could respace the buttons above the cuffs.
With that jacket ready to go to Paris, I finally was able to turn my attention to that dress I wanted to make. Some of you may remember seeing this cotton sateen/jacquard fabric mentioned in a prior post. I had debated whether to make a dress or a long skirt with it, but ultimately decided on a dress as I thought I would get more wear out of it that way.
I thought this would be the perfect weight and fabric for early spring in Paris – not too heavy and not wintry looking. I envisioned wearing this to the fashion show which we would be attending one evening at a private apartment. So much for those plans! Our schedule that day did not allow us to return to the hotel to change clothes. We would have to wear our out-and-about day clothes into the evening.
I went to Plan B and wore this jacket I had made several years ago. I paired it with navy slacks, a pale pink blouse, and a scarf which matched the lining of the jacket. I carried along a change of shoes to look a little dressier and that was that!
So what about that navy blue polka-dotted dress? Yes, I did finish it.
I carried it all the way to France for 15 days and back home again and never wore it… More about it in a future post.
fiftydresses 
Thank you for showing the “guts” of that beautiful jacket. I love seeing that kind of craftsmanship. I also love knowing that your craftsmanship has given it a whole new life. Out of the closet and onto the avenues of Paris!
Thanks, Dwayne! It did make it onto the streets of Paris and now that it has been resurrected from a life in mothballs, it shall see streets elsewhere, too!
Dear Karen, I was wondering when we’d get a new blog update. Your ability to alter that pink jacket is impressive. Your blue dress is wonderful. It’s better to have packed it and not worn it than not to have packed it and needed it. What to take to Paris is the biggest quandry any female could have to deal with and I’m sure you looked lovely. I look forward to Part II.
Thank you, Peggy! I’m glad I made the blue dress despite its quiet life so far. It is the type of dress I know I will wear often so it is nice to have it done.
You had my heart racing!!! How often have I been sidelined when a sidetrack kidnapped me? ( or how is it th
That’s a great word to describe how I felt – kidnapped!
Several things come to mind. You can still wear some thing that you’ve had in your closet for 20 years is impressive. I love reading your blogs so interesting. Please fill us in more detail….it is so appreciated!
Several things come to mind. The fact that you can wear some thing that’s been hanging in your closet for 20 years is impressive. I love seeing your post always something to learn always lovely. I went to Paris with Marcy Tilton and spent six months on my wardrobe. I made a beautiful coat to wear in November. They had record heat and I wore it for about 30 minutes so will always be known as my Paris coat!
Everyone should have a Paris coat. I made a silk coat several years ago to wear with a cocktail dress for a wedding in Maine. Yep – record heat, as well. I wore the coat for about 15 minutes while my husband got some pictures, and that was that. BUT – I’ve worn it a lot since then, so all was not lost. Don’t you love the stories that clothes can tell?
Your polkadot dress is beautiful. Such a shame you didn’t get to wear it.
You’ll forgive me for starting to laugh when you decided to alter the pink jacket. How many times I’ve seen myself get sidetracked by what should have been a quick fix.
The pink jacket was worth it though. I’d love to see some photos of you in it and of your trip to Paris.
I’m now convinced there are never any quick fixes when it comes to sewing.
I’m sure I’ll get many opportunities to wear the polka dotted dress, so it’s fine. All in all, I wore most of what I took, which was a good feeling!
It happens we’re getting ready for a trip in May to Normandy, Brittany and Paris. I discovered last May on a tour that included the Loire Valley and Paris – that French fashions have become more casual than I remember from a trip in the 1980’s! It was nice to see young women wearing sensible shoes in Paris. And jeans are often paired with tailored shirts and jackets. Of course you need fancier clothing for the theater or ballet, if that’s on your agenda.
Please do tell us what you brought along in your luggage that you enjoyed wearing the most.
p.s. this may not be your taste, but a Breton Fisherman’s Smock is a new item in sewing patterns https://readytosew.fr/en/women-pdf/6-james-fisherman-s-smock.html
I’ve already made myself one, using a vintage pattern, Butterick 3657 view A https://www.etsy.com/listing/1396073222/butterick-pattern-3657-misses-tops?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_c-craft_supplies_and_tools-patterns_and_how_to-patterns_and_blueprints&utm_custom1=_k_CjwKCAjw26KxBhBDEiwAu6KXtwHPH8G3GPGdRQHG9zsy-b2Fehb-ADYMdRdvK8FlG9Kxm7HH28sZhxoCWZ8QAvD_BwE_k_&utm_content=go_1843970770_66522690901_346397934385_pla-322726483858_c__1396073222_468319302&utm_custom2=1843970770&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw26KxBhBDEiwAu6KXtwHPH8G3GPGdRQHG9zsy-b2Fehb-ADYMdRdvK8FlG9Kxm7HH28sZhxoCWZ8QAvD_BwE
Things were definitely more casual in Paris than I expected, especially after the direction we had gotten from Susan. But there were those occasional ladies on the street that looked incredibly stylish and put together! I felt properly dressed, so that was good.
Thanks for the links to the Breton smock! It is kind of a tunic feel without the embellishment. I like it! My husband and I positively loved Normandy and Brittany and really enjoyed our time there. Hope you have a fabulous trip!
Thanks, I’ll see how my own weather/wardrobe planning works out.
your dress is beautiful. I can’t find this pattern in my size. I think I can duplicate it, using my sheath dress pattern. Would you mind sharing the depth of the center front pleat?
That pleat is a good 4″ deep. It was actually quite a complicated pattern, made more complicated because I wanted to line it. I wish you much success in duplicating it!
great post! I’m intrigued to hear why the beautiful dress didn’t get worn?
I just didn’t have the right occasion to wear it after its original intent did not work out. But I will wear it in the future!
Ohhh, I would love to hear more about your trip and wardrobe! I love the navy dress fabric! Ideal for that beautiful dress. Do you plan to wear It with the pink jacket?
I will try to do another post or two about what I wore and the trip itself. I don’t think the blue dress and the pink jacket will ever be paired. Thanks for your comment!
How wonderful that you got to participate on this sewing retreat with the amazing Susan Khalje! What a great reason to pull out some wardrobe favorites and get to work altering them, as well as create some new pieces. I hope you get to wear that fabulous navy coat in the near future! Thanks for sharing!
-Stephanie
The trip definitely gave me a reason to wear some seldom-worn items, so that was good! Lovely to hear from you, Stephanie!
I enjoy reviewing your posts and reading comments. Food for thought indeed.
Came up with an idea as to why the upper shoulder darts disappeared- the invasion of the shoulder pad.
My shoulder measure is more narrow than most and my arms a bit shorter, not much but enough so I often look as if I’m wearing clothes that are too big. For years I’ve been resetting sleeves and/or shortening sleeves. As this takes a lot of time, my to do pile is a mountain. The conversation about the shoulder darts was like a magic door opened and pulled me into a new thinking room. If I adjust the shoulder seam – dart, pleat, gather – I eliminate the need to change the sleeve! Of course it isn’t the right solution for every garment but an epiphany.
Here is what is gained. When my sleeve would be reset a few inches into the shoulder, I lost the ease above the bust area and across the upper back. By using the vertical dart I keep the ease.
So if I didn’t review your very interesting writing, ( and photos! – as an English teacher I often lamented the lack of illustrations in important books. When students have to read a lot it helps to have images to hang ideas in their minds. When I assigned chapter/character sketches instead of questions to be asked or answered, students final exams were more successful and their essays more readable) I’d never have come up with this new idea! We do get stuck in ruts that need the help of others to climb out alive! 🤣Thanks❤️
Marjie
I’m so glad this shoulder dart conversation helped you, Marjie! It does seem like a good place to start for alterations for someone in your situation. I’m not sure shoulder pads would have necessarily been the impetus to move away from vertical shoulder darts. I say that because you see them often on styles from the ’40s and ’50s when shoulder pads were frequently used. In my next life I’m going to be a fashion historian and tackle some of these questions! It is all very fascinating.
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As soon as you mentioned four layers on the shoulder pad I knew this was going to become an adventure, and was relieved you could just shorten the sleeves. The jacket got a new life!
It really did, Kathy! I’m so glad to have it to wear again. The only problem is friends asking me if I made it…!
What a fabulous occasion to tap into your fabulous wardrobe!
Not only am I happy for you because I trust you enjoyed both parts of your trip, but I’m also glad that you represented the USA so well.
Your newly altered jacket is great. It has such interesting lines. Your work was worthwhile.
I have a dress with shoulder pads up to my ears that I’ve been intending to take up for, ahem, quite some time. I intend to do it all at the shoulders, but I have not yet seriously studied how to dart the sleeve.
Your pattern with simple lines is perfect for the dress with tone-on-tone polka dots.
That is my favorite of your Chanel style jackets – and not only because the peachy pink and blue are my colors. More because it’s just right to go with more things.
As always, it’s such a delight to read gour posts.
Your comments always make me smile, Mery! Thank you! I must say it was nice to have some time-tested things to choose from for my trip. It meant I wasn’t in a panic over not having anything to wear! It’s so funny – I did NOT want to look like an American tourist, and I think I avoided that quite nicely. (Except for my LLBean outer jacket which I wore on chilly days in Normandy and Brittany. Somehow I think that was excusable.)