Category Archives: paneled skirts

May Flowers – Blooming in July

When the flowers are blooming on Liberty Lawn, they are fresh well into the summer, right?  When I originally ordered this fabric last Fall, I intended for it to be a Springtime blouse.  

Once it arrived, however, it wasn’t right for a blouse.  Additionally, I thought the blue was going to be more of a navy blue (although it looks like navy here, it is really lighter than navy), so I was a bit disappointed and had to rearrange all my thinking on it.  This is why it is always best to obtain a swatch of fabric before ordering, a precaution I often do not heed, at my own peril.  

However, I had had it in the back of my mind to make a summer skirt this year so once I looked at this piece with fresh eyes, I saw the possibilities in it.  I envisioned a skirt with some swing to it, but not too full, and below-the-knee length.  Rather than search all over for such a pattern, I just used the skirt pattern I had altered for this dress:

The 5 gores in it give it a nice gentle sway, and the addition of the inverted pleat in the center front adds width without bulk.  I lined the skirt with cotton batiste, but used no underlining. 

I finished the seams of the fashion fabric with Hug Snug binding.

 I applied the lapped zipper by hand and finished the inside of the waistband with Hug Snug hem binding tape.  

I attached the batiste lining to the edge of the waistline before folding in the center inverted pleat.

Originally I was going to make a self-belt or sash out of the same fabric, but I thought that would be boring.  Then I thought about trying to find a straw belt to wear with it, but that notion did not go too far because I remembered a lime green silk sash I had made several years ago.  Although not an exact match, the green coordinates with the green in the Liberty fabric and, I thought, adds some necessary contrast.  Paired with a white tailored blouse, the outfit is still casual.  

Now I’m not disappointed with this fabric purchase!

Getting back to Liberty Lawn …   I can find myself lost for hours looking at online selections of Liberty fabric.  The designs, the color selections, and the silky quality are all so tempting. The pure number of beautiful prints is so great – that more often than not I find myself unable to make a decision.  There are some designs, however, that are so classic and eye-catching, and those eventually will find themselves in my check-out cart!  Yes, Summer flowers are yet to come…

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Filed under Liberty cotton, paneled skirts, Uncategorized

The Calm before the Storm

Starting the new year with a “simple” project seemed like the way to go, knowing that I plan to spend the remainder of the winter on a coat and “related apparel.” More on that in my next post. I thought that if I didn’t get this “skirt that was meant to be” cut out and sewn in the first couple of weeks of January, it might not get finished this year.

I found the fabric on eBay – dubbed as a medium-weight wool in good condition – 58” wide, 1+ yard in length, which I figured was enough for a skirt.

Navy and white houndstooth.

Navy and white houndstooth.

There is always a bit of the unknown when one is bidding on fabric online, especially when it comes to the feel and hand of the fabric. For that reason, I kept my bid fairly low, especially as I seemed to be the only one bidding or even watching this lot. So, you can imagine my surprise when I was OUTBID! I was disappointed, but clearly it was my own fault for not making a stronger bid.

I went on with my day, trying not to think about how much I liked the look of this fabric. And then – eBay sent me a message saying I had a second chance at the fabric – it could be mine for the amount I had bid originally. Hurray! I will never know what happened to make this possible, but clearly the skirt I had planned in my mind was meant to be.

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When the fabric arrived, it was lovely, although a bit heavier than I thought it would be. I decided it would make up better if there were few – or no – darts. So I settled on the paneled skirt from this 1958 pattern.

The calm before the storm - pattern

These small drawings show the seams and shaping of the skirt quite well. Obviously, I shortened the length of the skirt.

These small drawings show the seams and shaping of the skirt quite well. Obviously, I shortened the length of the skirt.

The shaping is in the seams, and even though there are a lot of seams (6 of them to be precise), I knew I could control the bulk by using couture techniques.

I underlined the skirt with silk organza, and secured the raw edges of each seam with catch-stitching.

I underlined the skirt with silk organza, and secured the raw edges of each seam with catch-stitching.

I also lined the waistband, thereby reducing bulk in that area. I used Bemberg rayon for the lining.

It is a little difficult to see, but this photo shows the inside of the lined waistband.

It is a little difficult to see, but this photo shows the inside of the lined waistband.

Another look at the waistband.

Another look at the waistband.

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I believe this skirt is going to be a staple in my winter wardrobe – classic houndstooth in navy and white wool is versatile, timeless, and warm. This was a calm and simple way to start the new sewing year. Now I can dig into something much more complicated, and I am excited to do so!

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Filed under couture construction, paneled skirts, Uncategorized, Vintage fabric, vintage Vogue patterns from the 1950s, woolens