An Italian Cotton for an American Summer

For a number of years this light, filmy, patterned and printed cotton, made in Italy,  had been lurking in my “cottons basket.”  I had purchased two yards of it from Mendel Goldberg Fabrics, for a “future” dress presumably.

This fabric is partially sheer. The print is overlaid on what appears to be a “burn-out” cotton, ie., two-layered.

At 60” wide, I knew two yards would be sufficient for just about any summer style I chose to make.  It seemed like every Spring I would take it out and consider the possibilities for it, not reaching a decision.  But this Spring, the “future” had finally arrived, at least for this fabric.

I’m not sure how I came up with the idea to trim it with a coordinating tape/ribbon, but I liked the definition it gave to the colors in the printed floral sprays.  First, I thought purple would be a great color to pair with it, then I went to yellow, then to pink.  None of those seemed to make the fabric pop the way I anticipated they would.  So, even though red is not a dominant color in the print, I decided to try it. And that was it – it worked!

I had already decided on a Vogue pattern I had previously used twice, albeit with a number of obvious changes.  

The first construction decision facing me was whether to underline it with cotton batiste and then also line it with – I wasn’t sure what; or just line it and hope that would be sufficient.  I wanted to preserve the light, airy feel of the fabric, but I also needed to address the sheerness of part of the fabric.  

After much thought and experimentation, I went with using only a simple cotton batiste lining. That turned out to be the right decision.  I under-stitched around the inside of the neckline and armscyes even though I did not have an underlining upon which to secure those stitches.  However, the under-stitching – which caught only the seam allowance – still had enough of a stabilizing effect to secure those edges. 

A hand-picked zipper is always a lovely detail to add to a dress like this:

There was some subtle pattern placement on this dress, but no matching.

I’m getting ahead of myself here, but to make this dress, I was eking out small snippets of sewing time during a complicated Spring.  And when the time came to do our annual Summer migration from Pennsylvania to Wyoming, 2200 driving miles west, the dress was unfinished.  

So, I packed it up along with a lot of other sewing-related things, and I eventually picked up where I left off.   I remembered to bring the zipper for the dress, – and the red Petersham ribbon for its embellishment – but I forgot to bring the extra dress fabric.  Why was this a big deal, you might be asking?  Well – I needed to make a belt for the dress, and my intention was to make a self-belt, edged with the red ribbon.  

Once again in my sewing life, I found myself going to Plan B – necessary, if I had any thought of wearing this dress this summer.  (Plan B stands for “It BETTER work.”)  I hemmed and hawed and decided there were two options.  One was a white belt and the other was a red belt.  I came to the conclusion a red belt would be too overpowering for the delicate nature of the fabric.  So that left me with a white belt, which wasn’t too exciting.  Then I had a eureka moment when I realized I could pick up the somewhat zigzag overlay motif in the fabric and embellish the belt with my extra red Petersham ribbon, applied in a zigzag pattern.  

This actually shows the back of the bodice. I used flat hooks to secure the belt.

Plan “B” seemed like a good idea when I remembered I had this Kate Spade Summer clutch to pair with my dress.

So – I rather like the Plan B belt although I may decide at some point to make a self-belt as I had originally intended.  We shall see.  One thing I know I will do is make belt loops for this dress from its remaining fabric sleeping back in Pennsylvania.

In the meantime, this is a good dress for a hot American summer.

Ciao!

33 Comments

Filed under couture construction, hand-sewn zippers, Linings, Summer sewing, Uncategorized, vintage Vogue Designer patterns, vintage Vogue patterns from the 1970s

33 responses to “An Italian Cotton for an American Summer

  1. Betty Morgan's avatar Betty Morgan

    That’s very pretty looks so nice on you!!

  2. Cheryl Lemmons's avatar Cheryl Lemmons

    This is so lovely and inspiring! Love all the couture touches!

  3. Stacey's avatar Stacey

    Stunning! I envy your skills.

  4. Sue's avatar Sue

    Absolutely lovely! Plan B was a winner.

  5. Cheryl's avatar Cheryl

    Another lovely dress! Do you travel with a sewing machine and a few sewing items?

  6. What a lovely fabric and so lovely on you.

  7. Doesn’t everyone travel with a sewing machine? I’m getting packed for our annual three weeks in the mountains of Western Massachusetts, where I’ll finally get some work done on my quilt. There’s even a friendly quilt store near our B & B apartment!
    I was amazed how well that red and white clutch goes with your new summer dress. Did you have the bag in mind when you made the belt?
    Marjorie

    • Joan's avatar Joan

      Beautiful and refined summer dress! Thank you for discussing your construction decisions re. underlining vs. lining and showing your handwork.

      The belt with red zigzag adds some playfulness and sportiness or youth to a traditional feminine dress. If you do a self belt, you will have double the options!

      I’m curious how your sewing setup differs in your two homes?

      • Thank you, Joan! So… my sewing room in Pennsylvania is completely dedicated to sewing. I have a dress form there which is so wonderful to have. I also have large work table in the center of the room and a separate counter for my machine. Lots of storage, too. My sewing room in Wyoming doubles as an extra bedroom, so I put my sewing things away whenever we need the extra sleeping space. But, it’s a great room (with spectacular views), and I’m very lucky to have my own space the majority of the time.

  8. I love eureka sewing moments!Beautiful dress and I think having an alternative self-fabric belt is a great idea. Love the fabric and THAT PATTERN is da bomb 😊

  9. Heather in Colorado's avatar Heather in Colorado

    What a beautiful summery dress you have made! It looks lovely and comfortable. Enjoy your WY summer.😊

  10. I love this—the style,the fabric, your choice of red…it all just works and the dress itself looks extremely comfortable, crisp and cool!

  11. Marjorie Johnson's avatar Marjorie Johnson

    I’m enjoying this very much! I think you’ll be my inspiration to complete projects in progress ( I like this rather than – unfinished)
    👍 Marjie

  12. elizabeth illingworth's avatar elizabeth illingworth

    You look beautiful as always!
    The fabric is divine, I would love to find it in a solid color, to do justice to that intricate weave.
    Elizabeth

  13. Perfect for summer. I love the coordinating trim to match your clutch.

  14. Amazing fabric and a lovely finish. You give all things a touch of elegance.

Leave a reply to Fifty Dresses Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.