Sometimes extra incentive is needed to push through a project which turns out to be more difficult than anticipated. Such was the case with this pink silk jacquard dress.
I had purchased this fabric quite a few years ago online from Britex Fabrics. I knew it was a dressy fabric, and unsure of what form this dress would take, I made the decision to purchase four yards of this 58” wide silk. That gave me some latitude in my selection of pattern.
Finally last Spring I made a decision about what I wanted this dress to be. That was precipitated by the arrival of a beautiful invitation to a very special event this Fall, and of course (!) I needed a new dress to wear to it. The fabric is a dressy, shimmery silk jacquard, so by its very nature it would make up into a dress which had a certain glamour to it.
I decided to use a go-to pattern I have used a few times already and make a classic shirtdress. That may seem like a strange choice, but I envisioned it as very dressy and flowing, and quite appropriate for the fabric.
While this idea was percolating, I happened to attend a luncheon/presentation by a wonderful organization called the Ibu Movement. (Pronounced ebu, with a long “e,” this is an Indonesian word meaning “a woman of respect.”)
The pop-up shop accompanying this event was filled with gorgeous clothing, accessories, even shoes. When I saw this envelope clutch, I knew it would match my silk fabric perfectly and would be the perfect addition to my as-of-yet-to-be-sewn pink dress. Little did I know at that time it would be the catalyst to make sure I finished the dress!
My first clue as to the fussiness of the fabric was as soon as I pressed it and laid it out for the placement of my muslin pattern. Here is what I noticed:
- The fabric had a slightly loose weave to it, making it almost stretchy, certainly very slinky. Keeping it properly aligned on the straight of grain was going to be a challenge.
- The fabric frayed easily.
- It also was prone to shedding silk fibers. I decided I needed to handle it as little as possible to mitigate this situation.
- The jacquard weave in it had a definite horizontal and vertical pattern to it, meaning I would have to match the design horizontally and vertically across seams. Although I am used to matching plaids and prints, this was a little different as the woven design was of irregular form.
I decided to underline the dress (except for the sleeves) with a very lightweight silk batiste, which I hoped would give it some substance, but still preserve the flowing nature of the fabric. I made the conscious decision not to add an additional lining to the dress.
Although I rarely use fusible interfacing, I realized very early on that sewn-in interfacing was going to shift around and cause all kinds of problems. Luckily, I had been introduced to a very finely woven, fusible German interfacing available from Farmhouse Fabrics. I had some on hand and found it to be the perfect stabilizing foundation for the cuffs, the front facing, the collar, the collar stand, and the hem.
So, that solved one big problem for me. I was still concerned about being able to get the hem even. I had good reason to be concerned! It took two tries to avoid having either a bubble appear or uneven dips around the perimeter.
The final quandary I had was the buttonholes. Because the fabric shed silk fibers so easily, I was really worried that my buttonhole attachment might grab onto those fibers and make a mess. I did some sample buttonholes, which confirmed my suspicions. So – I used wax paper between the foot of the attachment and the fabric, cutting little windows in the wax paper where the buttonholes would be sewn. It worked like a dream.
This was not a particularly fun dress to sew, but that “perfect” handbag kept me focused. And I am glad it did, as the dress was a success in the end. And it always feels like an accomplishment to use fabric which has been lying in wait for so long.
fiftydresses 
Beautiful and that snazzy bag is perfect! I especially like your pretty sleeves where they meet the cuffs. Another lovely accomplishment!
Thank you, Nancy. I had my fingers crossed those sleeves would be okay, but they turned out okay!
I applaud you for sewing silk! The last time I attempted a silk garment was 1969 and I gave up the project. There are different kinds of silk fabric but the light weight, shiny kind is so difficult to manage as you described.
My favorite silk on which to sew is silk twill. I have also found the more expensive the silk, the more “sewable” it is, for some reason.
Beautiful! You are so talented!
Thank you, Gayle! That is so sweet.
Your dress is lovely
Thank you so much, Eileen!
Stunning dress. Love the colour and that You decided to make a shirt style dress in Silk. What talent and perseverance. The wider tie belt looks more lux. I am encouraged to repeat the pattern styles that work for me everyday with some special fabric. Definitely should be more versatile. Thanks, Enjoy
Thank you, Pat. I am always thrilled to be able to use a pattern I already have fitted for myself. It is such a time-saver!
It is a beautiful dress, I hope it worked splendidly for the occasion you had in mind. And it continues your pink year! That kind of project seems to take forever for me.😊
Thank you, Heather! Lately it seems every year is my pink year. The older I get the more I just want to sew on what makes me happy!
The dress and matching bag are absolutely gorgeous! I’m sure it was incredibly difficult to sew. I hope you’ll share a photo of you in the dress after you’ve attended the event. ~ Peggy
I too would like to see a photo of the you in the dress.
It’s just beautiful.
Thank you, Deborah. Timing was tight for this dress and a long trip across the country to the “its” event, making a photography session impossible this time. It was just about all I could do to get pictures of it on my dress form!
Thank you, Peggy. The event has come and gone. It necessitated a trip across the country (back to our home in Pennsylvania) and the weekend was such a whirlwind I had no time to take pictures for this blog. Then I left the dress in Pennsylvania when we returned to our western home. So…no posed pictures this go-round.
Your endeavors resulted in such a beautiful dress. I’m always impressed by your wonderful storytelling, your excellent sewing technique, and your step by step problem solving skills. You inspire me.
Thank you so much, Elaine. I so appreciate your kind comment.
Once again you’ve outdone yourself! My compliments to you on your skill and dedication. I know my limitations and would never attempt to create a garment from that beautiful pink silk. I’d have to admire it from afar! You are a talented woman. What will you tell us about next? I’m anxiously awaiting the next wonderful story from your sewing room.
Thank you, Peggy! I was happy to get this dress finished, and i hope next time I’m tempted to buy silk online, I remember to order a swatch first!
It turned out beautifully, well worth the “trouble”! And now you’ll have this wonderful dress in your wardrobe.
Thanks, Cheryl! It’s always nice to have a new dress in one’s wardrobe!
I have a fond memory of Vogue 8028. I made a white eyelet dress that I wore to my husband’s graduation when he received his masters degree!
Sounds beautiful! So many memories are affixed to our clothes… It’s lovely, isn’t it?
Your dress is gorgeous. Your fabric is gorgeous. The purse find was just perfect. I love that style with a little give in the fit and ease of movement – rather, I should say it is kinder to me than some others. Most of all, I love that you share with us – the how-to, your story, a bit of yourself. Thank you.
Thank you, Mery, as always. Someday I shall make a compilation of your thoughtful, lovely comments. I so appreciate each and every one.
I am indeed flattered. I’m just glad you put up with me.
Gorgeous classic shirtdress: you are so right, in this fabric, the dress is elegant and evening-appropriate. And your bag: so perfect!
Thank you, Joan. I love that bag and am intent on figuring out with what else I can pair it!