Monthly Archives: May 2024

Fashion and Fabrics:  More from My Couture Trip to Paris

Among the highlights on The Paris Tour with Susan Khalje were several visits to fashion exhibitions, shopping excursions to three fabric stores, and one to a fabulous scarf store. 

The first exhibit we visited was at the Yves Saint Laurent Foundation. 

 In addition to the selections on display in the current “Sheer:  the diaphanous creations of Yves Saint Laurent,” we had the opportunity to see his studio where he worked.

Diaphanous, indeed!

This dress had an ethereal look to it.

This is only a partial view of his spacious workroom.

Later that same day, we went to the Musee des Arts Decoratifs where the current exhibit of the works of Iris Van Herpen were on display.  Some of the members of our group were quite taken with her designs.  I was not one of them.  I much preferred our visit to the Alaia Foundation to see the newly-opened exhibit featuring works by Azzedine Alaia and Madame Gres.  I have long been a fan of the design aesthetic of Madame Gres.  Her works served as a point of great inspiration for Alaia.  To see so many of her designs on display, many alongside the more contemporary works of Alaia, was captivating. 

The dress on the left is by Madame Gres, the one on the right by Alaia.
Another fabulous design by Madame Gres.
The Alaia Foundation has preserved his work room exactly as he left it.

The crème de la crème was our visit to La Galerie Dior, newly reopened and quite spectacular. Having seen the Dior Exhibit when it was at the Denver Museum of Art five years ago, I wondered how similar the two presentations might be.  There were obviously some repeats of the iconic dresses and ensembles of Christian Dior before his untimely death in 1957, but somehow everything seemed fresh and newly considered.  The building is beautiful, masterfully lit,  with a logical, but innovative floorplan.  Entrance to the Galerie is by timed tickets, and at no time did the galleries seem crowded or uncomfortable.

I could have spent hours studying the walls and walls of accessories and miniature clothing which lined the stairwell.

.

And yes – all the dresses shown above are miniature copies of originals from the House of Dior.

After all this inspiration, it was fun to go to three fabric stores.  The first one on the agenda was Tissus Edre.  

This store sells end cuts from the couture houses, and there is a lot to see.  There is not much order to the “presentation” which meant we had to dig our way through the piles of offerings.  I admit to having some problems with this type of fabric store. 

 It was only after a fellow member of our group found this silk charmeuse shown below, that I noticed it.  

A piece of the pale blue floral silk on top of the pile came home with me.

The second fabric store we visited was the world renowned Janssens + Janssens. 

 This store was the antithesis of the prior one in its ordered rows of bolts of fabrics both upstairs and downstairs.  I spent much of my time with the silk charmeuses and twills although this store is probably known best for its exquisite laces.  

Here is sampling of the laces available for purchase.
Silk Charmeuse

A silk twill which also came home with me.

Some day I am going to wish I had this fabric for a lining for a coat.

I could see this fabric made into a flowing caftan to wear in a tropical climate. Someone else will have to do that.

Finally, we went to a fabric store in the garment district by the name of General Diff.  It, too, features end cuts from the couture houses among other selections.  Again, it was a jumble, with fabric piled high on large tables.  They had some lovely lightweight wool, but I declined to be tempted, as my suitcases were reaching capacity at this point.

Finally, here are some photos from Wolffe et Descourtis, the wonderful scarf store which captivated us all. This business has remained in the same family for many decades , and indeed the proprietress is Victoria Wolffe, of the original founding family.

What fun to come home with my beautiful scarf!

This ends my monologue on the Paris Tour, despite there having been additional places we visited, people we met and things we did.  Summer sewing has already cranked up, with my attention back here in the States. Happy Sewing June to all of you!

20 Comments

Filed under Christian Dior, Fashion Exhibits, Scarves, silk, Uncategorized

 How Does One Pack for a Trip to Paris in mid-March? Part II

Blouses, sweaters, tops.  These three categories gave me plenty to pair with dressier slacks and more casual pants.  I took along one solid black, jewel neck embroidered cotton sweater and two cotton cardigan sweaters which I always wear fully buttoned to use as dressy tops.  They were perfect for three of the days in Paris.  I had two cashmere/cotton blend pullover collared sweaters which were equally perfect for more casual days and a few more versatile pullovers.  Then I had blouses.  I love blouses.  I decided I needed a new silk blouse to take to Paris with me.  

I saw this Italian silk twill on the website for Britex Fabrics:

It appealed to my love of geometrics, and additionally I thought it was just so classy looking.  So I bought it and proceeded to make a blouse.  

For a twill, it frayed a bit more than expected, but the weight was lovely.  I tweaked my go-to blouse pattern once again for this blouse.  I eliminated the back box pleat below the yoke which I have added in previous makes.  I wanted a more streamlined appearance and less bulk to tuck in.  To that end I also added very slim front vertical bust darts.  

I cut the back yoke on the bias which I decided would look better than on the straight of grain due to all those squares lining up attractively.
Here is one of those narrow vertical darts below the bust.

I also shortened the hem by one inch and squared it off with slits at the side seams.

What to do for BUTTONS!?  I had selected 3 varieties from which to choose – all from my collection assembled over the past umpteen years.  

The one thing in common with these buttons is their squarish shape which I thought would compliment the print.

Usually, a winner is clear to me, but this time I needed some assistance.  So, I asked my sewing friend, Debra, for her input, which was a brilliant move on my part.  How wonderful to have confirmation from her trained eye that the buttons I was leaning toward were her choice as well.  Her decisiveness was quick and instinctive. 

The only problem was they were already on a blouse which I made years ago.  No problem, I just took them off that bouse, with a promise to find replacements at some point.  The other sweet thing about these black cube buttons – and I digress here – is that I was with my daughter, Susanna, when I purchased them.   We have wonderful memories of that day long ago, spent together at a vintage textile show in New England.  So from the fields of Massachusetts to the streets of Paris, these vintage Bakelite buttons continue to add layers to their history.

And here I am wearing my blouse, drinking champagne, and enjoying conversation with one of our guest speakers.

I thought it would be a good idea to have a “fancier” blouse along on the trip.  It was already in my closet, having been sewn a number of years ago.  It continues to be one of my favorite makes ever, although I do not get the opportunity to wear it very often.  

I wasn’t sure when I would wear it, but somehow I knew I would find the perfect day and time.  By Friday morning of the trip, I had decided to wear it that evening to our Gala Dinner, with dressy black slacks.  I had brought along specific jewelry to pair with it, and I was quite confident I would look well attired for that special night.  And then…  as luck would have it, one of our stops that day was to a scarf store in Paris.  Susan had expressed her great admiration for this store and their goods, so we were all looking forward to our time there.  

Truth be told, I could have easily purchased three or four scarves that afternoon.  The selection was wide-ranging, both in design and fabric.   But there was one scarf I knew would go home with me.

The funny thing is, when I purchased it, I was not thinking about the blouse I planned to wear that evening.  But when I got back to my hotel room, I realized what a great duo they would make.  As the evening was a bit chilly, and we had a short walk to the restaurant, having this cashmere blend scarf wrapped around my shoulders was the perfect addition.  

It was a fun evening, and I felt perfectly attired!  Of course, from now on, I shall refer to this scarf as my Paris wrap. 

At this point you may be wondering if I actually wore a dress while on my trip.  As a matter of fact, yes, I did.  Our instructions were to be dressily attired the evening we attended the Ballet at the Palais Garnier.  I decided to take along this dress which was ready for another outing. 

 It is dressy and comfortable, but the best thing about it is – it pairs well with my pink coat, forever a favorite.  

I was determined to take this lightweight Spring wool coat to Paris.  I made it from vintage Lesur wool made in France and for some reason, I just had my heart set on wearing it in Paris.  The weather wasn’t all that cooperative as it was a bit warm for a wool coat.  That did not deter me.  I donned it anyway, and that’s the end of the story!  

Together with two of my tour-mates before the ballet.

However, there is more to come, as I will share a bit about other parts of the trip next time. 

18 Comments

Filed under Bakelite buttons and/or jewelry, Blouses, Buttons - choosing the right ones, Coats, Scarves, silk, Uncategorized, vintage buttons, Vintage fabric