Where to begin with this story? I have to go back 50 years – which sounds daunting and slightly surreal. As a 23-year-old about to be married, I had already made my wedding gown that summer of 1973. I still, however, needed a couple of dresses to take on our upcoming wedding trip in early September. With that intention, I ventured into Stapler’s Fabric Store on Walnut Street in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania (USA). Stapler’s was one of the old, notable, family-owned purveyors of fine fabrics and dress goods, and I loved going in the store. Most of the time I could only look and dream, so going in on a mission made this trip memorable.
Stapler’s carried high end fabrics and that included the newest offerings of Moygashel Irish linen. I have written several times about this storied brand of dressmaker linen, known for being wrinkle and crease resistant, known for its exquisite designs and colors, and highly sought after by women of good taste. I can still feel the excitement I had that Summer day when I saw a quintessential floral Moygashel in vibrant pinks and greens and whites.
I had already picked out a Very Easy, Very Vogue pattern (the pattern number is lost to the ages by now, as is the pattern itself) to make a long A-line dress with short cut-on sleeves and center front and center back seams. I purchased the yardage I needed and made this dress:
I loved it. I felt beautiful in it, which has, over the years, become my litmus test for a successfully made garment. Several years ago I included this dress in a post I titled “Shopping in My Cedar Closet.” I posed a question to myself – should I take this dress apart and reuse the beautiful fabric – which I still loved – for something else? By asking myself this question, I knew I had the answer. Too many memories, too much of the younger me were in this dress for me to cut it apart. I placed it back in the closet and vowed to keep it as is.
A few years later a most amazing thing happened. While searching for vintage Moygashel linen on eBay, I found an offering for a length of the same pink, green and white floral fabric I had purchased so many years ago. The listing was for 2¼ yards of this 45”wide fabric. I purchased it immediately, its new rendition to be determined. In my mental sewing calendar, however, I hoped to bring life to this fabric 50 years after I made my first dress from its twin.
The planning began in earnest earlier this year. I had to decide exactly what silhouette dress I wanted my new dress to have. With only a little over two yards, I knew my choices were somewhat limited. And I also knew the fabric itself needed to be the star – with its demonstrative, large design, its medley of colors and its lustrous weave. It took me a while to realize I had already determined the correct formula 50 years ago. It needed to be another A-line dress, with some length to it. This time, however, I would make it using the couture techniques I have learned since then.
I also knew I wanted: a) longer sleeves, if possible, with the yardage I had; b) to underline and line this dress (but preserve its washability); and c) to add some minor embellishment in some way, perhaps buttons or trim of some sort.
A suitable pattern happened to be one I had already used twice.
I first used this pattern for this dress:
And then a year or two later, I used it for this dress:
Having a pattern which fits, with pleasing lines and a certain finesse to it, is worth its weight in gold. Even better, the late 1960s’/early 1970s’ vintage aspect of this pattern made it a perfect fit with fabric from 1973. The only question I had was a big one. Did I have enough fabric to make a longer dress with longer sleeves? The answer: No – and then Yes.
(The story continues in the next post…)
fiftydresses 
How did you learn your couture skills? Did you take classes? Teach yourself?
Hi Stacey, I learned some from using Vogue patterns and studying the Vogue Sewing Book from 1972. However, my real couture journey began when I took a Craftsy Class given by Susan Khalje. Then I’ve attended classes with her in person several times. It is an ongoing endeavor, as there is always more to learn!
I love each of them. I am enthralled waiting for this new one.
You won’t have to wait long, Mery, as I plan to post Part 2 later today!
The Vogue pattern is beautiful! Any chance you can send the number? It’s not readable in the post.
Yes, Susan, the number is 6944. It is torn from the envelope, but of course the instruction sheets are marked accordingly, thank goodness! I have never made the short jacket from this pattern, but I suspect I will at some point.
What a delight to see your article! Your skills with the keyboard are equal to your skills with a sewing machine! I think you’re using part of your first dress to make this new creation. I’ve recently had the same quandry as I have a pink floral, full and long skirt, sundress that I bought when I was two sizes smaller. I plan to de-construct it and make something new from the massive amount of fabric in the skirt. I’m exceedinly excited about reading the update to this wonderful adventure. Thank you for a charming and interesting tale.
It is always such a temptation to re-use fabric in an existing garment. There are certainly some challenges involved, not the least of which is determining the straight of grain without selvages to guide you. Hope your remake turns out beautifully! I bet it will!
And, by the way, Part 2 will be up before the end of today. How’s that for quick work?
What a wonderful post. I’m intrigued and waiting for the next one! Always an uplifting read, thank you!
Thank you, Mira! Look for Part 2 to appear shortly.
Now we must remind ourselves to breathe while we wait for the next post! What a great way to celebrate 50 years of marriage!
Your comment made me laugh, Kathy! Part 2 will be posted shortly – later today!
Wow — what a teaser you are, Karen — you drew me in with this wonderful story, and now I must wait!
Lovely dresses! Even your original dress from the early 70’s shows your excellent sewing skills pre-couture, pre-pattern matching… I am curious what choices you have made for the center front seaming, given limited fabric.
Please tell me what the difference is in a princess line style that ends in a vertical dart (not continued to the hem), as in your vintage pattern. Certainly, you must use a natural fiber fabric and taper the bottom of the dart well so that it lays very smoothly at the hip.
I think that vertical dart/princess seam works in two ways: one is that it uses less fabric than a full princess seam. The other is it gives the ability to add shaping on a slight angle. That, paired with the center front seam – which is not a straight seam, but which also has some shaping to it – gives the dress a nice flow, especially in the longer version. (And yes, I don’t think a synthetic fabric would work very well in that long dart.)
And you won’t wait for long – look for Part 2 later today.
Thank you for your comments and question, Joan!
Thanks very much for your ideas on the princess seam/dart: very helpful, Karen.
Wonderful story and congratulations on your 50 year anniversary. Now I have to be patient for “the rest of the story”. And your dresses are very pretty, especially the black/white floral.
I am curious about the challenges of pattern matching with the front seam down the middle. It seems like with such a bold print a pattern without a center seam would be preferable? Any thoughts?
Fyi. Whether a cliff hanger or not, I always look forward to your posts!
I think your question will be answered in Part 2, which will be posted later today. But I will add that the center seam is not a straight seam, it is tapered out, adding to the flow of the skirt, especially in the longer version.
Thank you so much for your nice comments!
I’m happy to see a post from you, as always.😊 congratulations on finding the same linen fabric!
Thanks, Heather! It was quite a find!
Karen, that Vogue dress pattern is lovely but it has a center seam. I would prefer that pattern in a solid color fabric – or use a similar style without a center seam for a print fabric.
Marjorie
Personal preference plays a big part in sewing, as you know. Aren’t we fortunate to have that ability?! I prefer a center front seam in a dress like this because of the extra shaping it gives to the skirt.
Happy 50th Anniversary❣️
I have a question about zippers, am curious why not use an invisible zipper? Though I do think a hand-picked overlay does show off a nice tailor detail.
Also wondering if you pre-shrunk the fabrics before cutting pattern?
Thank you, Diana. Yes, I prewashed the linen and the cotton batiste, although I did not prewash the Bemberg lining, as I know it doesn’t shrink. (Linen doesn’t shrink either, but at 50 years old, I thought a good washing was in order. Actually I always wash linen before sewing with it.) Abut the zipper – certainly I could have used an invisible zipper. Somehow a hand-picked lapped zipper appeals to me more. A hand-picked zipper is kind of the standard for couture sewing (according to some), and I enjoy doing them.
I remember Stapler’s well. I was a nursing student at UPENN in the late 70s and sewed many of my own garments. I’d walk from UPENN’s West Philly campus on weekends to visit Stapler’s downtown. I couldn’t afford their fabrics, but I was surely inspired by them. I’m headed to NYC tomorrow to shop for fabrics–unrestrained!
So fun to be able to reminisce with you about Staplers. What a wonderful store it was. Between that and the fabric department at Wanamakers, I always had a place to wander to at lunchtime when I was working in Philadelphia. Hope you found something gorgeous in NYC!