Whenever I am working with vintage fabric, it seems I either have more yardage than I need or, more frequently, less than I need. I have learned over the years there is usually a way to work around having less fabric than I really need. I just have to get creative. And that’s what I did when I made this dress.
I quickly determined there was no way I could get the dress I wanted by placing the pattern on the lengthwise straight-of-grain. The flare of the skirt, which I wanted to be mid-calf, precluded any notion of such a layout. At 45” wide, I knew I could just get the dress length I wanted if I laid out the pattern on the cross-grain, from selvedge to selvedge. Linen is a very stable fabric, so I was confident the cross-grain would work. In addition, there were no directional limitations in the floral design of the fabric. Barely fitting my pattern – from shoulder to hem – on the fabric from selvedge to selvedge, however, would leave no extra fabric to turn up for the hem – or even to face the hem. I decided to worry about that later. First I wanted to determine how I could get the four pieces for the dress and the two lengthened sleeves placed on the fabric, keeping in mind three important things: 1) although this was not a fabric to be matched per se, the all-over design of the fabric needed to be on the same plane in contiguous seams; 2) I wanted to space out the larger floral motifs so the dress would be balanced as best as possible (looking critically at the dress I made when I was 23, I clearly could have given this more thought!); and 3) I wanted to avoid large demonstrative blooms at the bust. Then, and only then, would I worry about the hem.
Once I was happy with this placement, I had a eureka moment when I knew I could accomplish two things with a simple bias trim made from the yardage of deep pink linen which coordinated nicely with the floral. 1) I could preserve the full 45” of cross-grain length by applying bias trim to the hem edge instead of turning it under, and I could do the same with the sleeves. And 2) the trim would add interest to the dress, just as I had vaguely imagined. (A quick aside here – I have ample yardage of the solid deep pink linen to make a coordinating coat at some point. Every dress needs a coat, right?)
I underlined this dress in a very lightweight, pre-washed, cotton batiste, then I lined it in Bemberg rayon. Moygashel linen washes beautifully, as does Bemberg lining, which is why I chose Bemberg over silk for this dress. I eliminated the neckline facing, choosing instead to bring the lining up to the edge of the neckline seam, then under-stitching it to secure that edge in place.
I chose to do a hand-picked, lapped zipper, an application which I think looks so lovely. Interestingly, I hand-picked the zipper in the dress I made in 1973, although it is a centered application.
When it came time to apply the bias-cut trim to the hem and sleeves, I had to experiment around a bit. I didn’t want it too wide, but it needed to be substantial enough to look like it was meant to be and not an afterthought or decision made in desperation! I finally settled on an exposure of 1/2”.
Now this is where it gets interesting. A few weeks ago I saw a vintage dress on a Facebook/Meta post by Xtabay Vintage Clothing Boutique. It is obviously Moygashel linen (I can tell by its weave and color), but what really caught my eye were the bias strips and low-profile bows adorning its sleeves. I tucked this idea in the back of my mind for future consideration. What I didn’t know was that the future was right around the corner! Yes – I “borrowed” this idea and added a single bias-cut bow to each sleeve. Somehow, it just seems to finish the dress.
Well, you may have guessed by now the reason for making this dress this year. I will wear it next week when my husband and I celebrate our 50th Wedding Anniversary. I have changed a lot in those 50 years (and so has my husband!), but I still love pink in all its shades and I still love Moygashel linen (and I still love my husband, too!)
fiftydresses 
Brava! Great finale! And I’m so happy you can wear it to such a festive and meaningful occasion.💕💕💕
a beautiful post and a beautiful dress. Happy Anniversary
Absolutely stunning dress, beautifully executed. The trim is the perfect finishing touch. Oh, very happy Anniversary to you both.
Oh Karen, I love everything about your dress and story—-a sort of what goes around comes around!
The bows are a darling feature along with the piping. This dress fits you perfectly as I’m sure the other one did and still does!
Congratulations to you and your hubby on your upcoming celebration of 50 years! Best wishes for continued good health, happiness and longevity.
Best, Arleen——BTW, I have this pattern too and have made it for others including a mother of the groom.
What a special story. I am sure your husband appreciates you and your efforts. Congratulations on 50 years of marriage. Hope you have many more. Is there anywhere you tell what your sewing background is? Would love to know your story. I am self taught so I try to learn as much as I can from you. Thank you for that. Love both dresses and that you have places to go looking so lovely, so feminine. Mostly a lost art, I am afraid to say! I think your husband is a lucky guy! Have fun.
Your work is just beautiful. Thank you so much for sharing. Happy Anniversary!
Congratulations on 50 years of marriage! Here’s to many more! Thank you for sharing sewing details….I really appreciate it. I love that dart/princess seam..so elegant. I really love those vintage shift dresses. I used to make/wear them when I was in my 20’s (in 1990’s) but I never made them with the attention to detail that you have shown here. I think a re-visit is on the cards for me. Congratulations again….now 50years of marriage is a goal to aspire to.
I love a good teaser (part 1, read this morning) and was delighted to see part 2 so soon! Not sure why, but I had expected to wait at least
week. LOL! The dress is really, really pretty, love the details, linings, and hand sewing, and that you have the same fabric for it as the earlier “wedding related” dress is simply spectacular. Congratulations on 50!!!!! Thanks for sharing! I so thoroughly enjoy reading your posts. Best regards, Linda
Wonderful story and a beautiful dress. Thank you for sharing.
You’re very welcome! Thank you for your lovely comment.
I wonder how I would like that print but when I saw you in it, well wow. Those colors are great on you!
Thank you, Betty. I am unapologetically crazy about pink!
Happy anniversary! Absolutely beautiful. Love seeing your posts. So inspiring, amazing work.
Kay Eibl Waukesha, Wisconsin
Thank you, Kay. That is so sweet of you to say. I am very appreciative.
Such a beautiful creation! But everything you make is so gorgeous! I have to share with you, when our granddaughters were here visiting, my good friend invited me to bring them out to her house for a sewing day. The beginning of the week we shopped for fabric to make flannel pajama pants. That was an adventure in itself! But boy did they ever have fun making those pants! They ended up getting new sweatshirts while visiting my hometown, and even though the pj pants weren’t even made yet, each of their sweatshirts match perfectly! We had so much fun, they want to come back again!
Sounds like a wonderful, memorable time for all of you! Brooke and Emily are two of the sweetest girls – how wonderful for you to share these special times with them – with more to come, no doubt!
Congratulations on 50 years of marriage! Such a beautiful dress you created, too, for your special occasion!
Thank you, Marsha! I can’t quite beige we’ve been married that long. I always thought 50 years of marriage was for old people!
What a spectacular dress! It and you look lovely. Congratulations to you and your husband for 50 years! Best wishes for many more creative years and especially pink ones.🎉🎉
A question – did you underline for added body for drape? I love the way the dress stands out a bit, and everything about it. To say I’m in awe is a bit of understatement!😁
Thank you, Heather! So, I underlined it with that soft cotton batiste to give me an anchor upon which to secure the raw edges of the seams so they will lay flat, and so that I could eliminate the facing at the neckline, instead bringing the lining up to the edge and securing it invisibly onto the (unseen) underlining. This is typical couture sewing. This linen is a very substantial fabric with a lot of drape of its own, but I do think the underlining enhances that as well.
You look so lovely in these colors! I appreciate your planning and construction information. Do so agree with the bow.
Thank you, Marjorie. It’s good to hear your concurrence about the bows!
So much fun to have a dress in the same fabric 50 years later! It is beautiful, and so are you!
Thank you, Kathy! This was a fun dress to make, that’s for sure.
Wonderful and meaningful 50th anniversary dress, Karen! How serendipitous to find that gorgeous fabric all these years later… Your layout was terrific, despite center seams and large print. So flattering and lovely on you. Happy 50th to you and your husband!
Thank you so much, Joan, for this lovely comment!
Lovely dress! Happy 50th Anniversary.
Thank you, Kathy!
You look gorgeous in that dress. Loved the story. Obviously you’re very talented. Happy 50th Anniversary to you and your husband💞
Thank you, Jinine. I so appreciate hearing your kind remarks!
Happy Anniversary! What a terrific story. (And you have matching pink shoes. Such a lovely outfit.)
Thank you, Stacey! I actually meant to being other shoes with me (we are at our summer home 2200 mikes from our other home), but forgot them! So these shoes will do for now…
Congratulations! On the anniversary and the dress! They are both wonderful accomplishments. I so enjoyed the story of this dress, and as always, I am thrilled by your use of colour in a world of ‘tasteful (and often boring) neutrals’. Your working is so joyful and inspiring. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you, Janet! I do love color and appreciate that you appreciate it!
Your dress is so beautiful! Those bows make it look so chic, although I am entranced by the triple bows on your vintage inspiration dress. Happy 50th anniversary to you and your husband!
Thank you, Catherine! I, too, love the triple bows on that vintage dress. I may do something similar one day…
How wonderful to have found the same fabric as the dress you made 50 years ago. It is beautifully made. I’ve heard of Moygashel linen before – is it a brand name of linen, the place where it is made or both?
Moygashel linen was a brand of Irish linen. It was unique in that it was/is a linen which resists wrinkles. Now, I do have to iron it after washing, but it retains its shape so beautifully. It was patented back in the day, due to the process by which it became wrinkle-resistant.
Thank you for the information.
This is exquisite. The dress. The history. The love story. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you, Susan, I’m so glad you enjoyed this… thanks for reading!
This dress is so perfectly you. I can imagine your excitement when you found the same fabric after 50 years! Beautiful execution of this vibrant print. You must feel like a million dollars wearing this dress!
You look stunning. You are glowing in the pretty dress, and from 50 years of growing together. I am sooo happy for you. May you enjoy many more good years of enjoying this dress and the husband too.
Thank you, Mery!
Wowza! Gorgeous! Your create works of art with such beautiful fabrics. I love the dress and the story. Brings back fond memories of 1973.
I know we are the same age- 1950 babies, but we have another milestone in common. My 50th wedding anniversary was also this year. So Happy Anniversary from one “Baby Boomer” to another!
So fun to know we have much in common. I always thought 50th anniversaries were for old people, however. Obviously not!
Happy 50th to you as well!
This dress is absolutely gorgeous and as always, I love your attention to detail. ________________________________
Happy 50th Anniversary to you and Tom! Loved the story of your dress.
Absolutely brilliant designing and sewing. Just so be6