Defying the passage of years?

Throughout the 1950s, copyright dates appeared on all Vogue patterns (or, at least that has been my observation). Copyright dates appear on some of the patterns from 1960-‘62, but after that, they are non-existent. It is always a thrill when I find a reference to, or picture of, a pattern, which I own or am working on, in one of The Conde Nast Publications, Inc. magazines or other printed materials. It is one sure way to date an otherwise undated vintage Vogue pattern.

So – you can imagine my delight when a small, 8-page Vogue Pattern Fashion News from February 1965 – which I recently purchased – featured the Emilio Pucci dress and jacket which has been my sewing focus for the past several weeks.

On the cover of this small "flyer", which was available for pick-up wherever Vogue patterns were sold, is the reference to fashion from Florence - as in Pucci's Florence!

On the cover of this small “flyer”, which was available for pick-up wherever Vogue patterns were sold, is the reference to fashion from Florence – as in Pucci’s Florence!

And here is the sketch of "my" Pucci pattern.

And here is the sketch of “my” Pucci pattern.

The brief caption gives an apt description of the Pucci pattern:

Pucci pattern - fashion news caption

And – I did indeed wear this dress (and jacket) to an “important party” just last weekend – to a beautiful wedding in Center City Philadelphia.


(This photo was not taken at the wedding...)

(This photo was not taken at the wedding…)

I was working diligently all last week to finish the jacket. Here are the details on what was transpiring in my sewing room:

First, I can tell you I was delighted that the pieced sleeve linings worked just as I had hoped they would. Here is the jacket turned inside out, showing the piecing on the lower sleeves.

Defyng the passage of years

Inside out, a back view.

Inside out, a back view.

And here is a photo inside the jacket, looking towards one sleeve, which shows that the piecing does not show! Hurray. I honestly don’t think anyone seeing the jacket slung over a chair is ever going to suspect that the Pucci lining fabric does not extend all the way down the sleeves.

Defying the passage of years

I also had the idea to add a narrow, bias, flat piping to the edge of the lining down the fronts and around the neckline. I found a turquoise silk in my fabric closet which seemed to keep with my “theme” of the turquoise under-stitching on the interior of the dress. This is one of those “dressmaker details” which just makes me happy.

Defying the passage of years

Another thing that makes me happy are the buttons! I picked out specific scraps of the silk, which featured designs I wanted to emphasize on the buttons. I sent them off to Pat Mahoney in Lodi, California, who returned them made into 1¼ inch buttons – flat and beautiful!

This is the button I chose for the top of the jacket.

This is the button I chose for the top of the jacket.  Notice the slot-seam-buttonhole.

The middle button - I couldn't resist featuring the Emilio signature on this one.

The middle button – I couldn’t resist featuring the Emilio signature on this one.

And the lower button.

And the lower button.

I decided to have two extra buttons made in case I wanted to add them to the sleeves.   And – add them, I did. I like the extra subtle  attention they bring to the jacket. (Another dressmaker detail – specifically, an added embellishment.)

Defying the passage of years

Defying the passage of years

I had the jacket finished when I suddenly remembered that a Vogue label had come with the pattern. Of course, I was delighted to sew it in place.

Defying the passage of years

Defying the passage of years

Defying the passage of years
 Defyng the passage of years

Defying the passage of years

There is something about using a pattern from 1965 that seems quite amazing to me. Yes, it is simple math, but think about this: 1965 was 49 years ago!   Is anyone who sees me in this dress and jacket going to think that it is sewn from a 49-year-old pattern? Somehow I doubt it. I think my secret is safe.




Filed under Buttons - choosing the right ones, couture construction, Dressmaker details, sewing in silk, Slot-seam buttonholes, The Conde Nast Publications, Uncategorized, vintage Vogue Designer patterns, vintage Vogue patterns from the 1960s

28 responses to “Defying the passage of years?

  1. Ann

    Congratulations on completing your couturier work of art-to-wear. It is exquisite in every detail. What a splendid accomplishment! It is one thing to sew ordinary items of clothing, and quite another to execute a high fashion design in precisely the right fabric, with couture methods. Thank you for sharing the journey with us, your loyal readers.

  2. onedabbles

    What a beautiful outfit – executed flawlessly. I love the genuinely personal touches such as the buttons and turquoise binding. It is genuinely timeless. Congratulations.

  3. Spectacular!!! Worth every moment of your time can’t waitbtobsee what’s next from your atalier!

  4. Pamela

    Stunning ensemble,,I particularly like the buttons on the sleeves..
    I was born in 1950 as well and am enjoying your blog immensely,Thank you

    • Thank you, Pamela! 1950 was wonderful year to be born. We were old enough to remember the great fashion explosion in the ’50s, and of course the stylish ’60s and early ’70s. It is so much fun to recreate those looks and have them still be so current.
      I am so glad you are enjoying my blog!

  5. Sueann walter

    Very, very nice. Wonderful work. 49 years ago, gosh I feel old since I remember 1965!

  6. Jackie

    Just outstanding!!!

  7. Brava! Your attention to those designer touches is inspiring — and the buttons pull it all together. I don’t think I’ve ever even considered how my jacket would look when hanging on a chair, but yours is impeccable. That’s what I mean by inspiring. Thank you for sharing this experience with us.

    • Thanks for following along! I love a pretty “insides” when it comes to jackets, particularly, and I always think the extra requirement of time is worth the finished product.
      By the way, I really enjoy your blog – and all the research that goes into it!

  8. What a stunning result! I just love the buttons, and the turquoise piping. Lovely!

  9. Quite simply stunning. The colours in the fabric look gorgeous on you, and it’s a divinely classic and flattering look! Your buttons and the jacket lining piping make smile – I love those little details. You’ve also solved a bit of a mystery to me – I’ve got 5 meters of what I thought was a pucci print in my stash, but had no way of knowing, until you mentioned the little signature! And I adore your shoes – the colour and the heel height! You look absolutely wonderful!

    • Thank you for your lovely, lovely comment! So, I am anxious to know – is your fabric a Pucci?

      • It is, yes! It’s not the usual pucci mediterranean colour palette though – it’s caramels, reds, yellows and creams. And now you’ve introduced me to the wonderful world of Vogue Couturier patterns… I’ve got my eye on a few. Thanks for the inspiration!

  10. Beautiful! The flat piping and all the details! *squee!* Your whole outfit makes me happy – wonderfully classic and totally couture!! (I don’t have enough !!!’s) That print is so pretty! =)

  11. Fashionista

    Hello. Your outfit is beautiful, such lovely colours. I love your “dressmaker details”, regardless that they are not on show they finish the outfit and make a sewist happy.

  12. Looks fantastic! You’re going to have a ball wearing that.

  13. Thank you! I know I will be able to wear this dress and jacket often – and it is so rewarding to wear something of one’s own devising, isn’t it?

  14. Gorgoeus! I love it! It is timeless, elegant, fabulous!

  15. The covered buttons are the final professional touch! Very beautiful!

    • Thank you! I decided no other buttons would do for this – and it is so wonderful to have Pat Mahoney services available for a project like this. Thanks so much for your comment.

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