Can it really be that May will arrive in a few days? If that is true, then I am only about 2 months behind in my sewing schedule. But who’s keeping track? I’m happy that I have plowed through to finish my wool suit dress, even though it will immediately go into my cedar closet for safe storage until next Fall.
When I fell off the edge of the world after Part 4 (only figuratively, thank goodness!), I was starting on the sheath dress. I had decided to add a collar to it, so that I could use that fourth vintage button (I had already used three on the jacket itself). Matching the windowpane plaid on the collar section took some special attention, as this photo shows:
I underlined the collar with the lining fabric, and I made a working bound buttonhole instead of just sewing the button in place. Anything to make it more involved, right?
Detail of the button on the collar.
Lining the collar with silk charmeuse reduced bulk and helps it lay flat.
From that point on, it was a straightforward sheath dress. I love a sheath dress. I think it is such a flattering silhouette, and very feminine. As far as I am concerned, one can never have too many sheath dresses (just as one can never have too many shoes). Speaking of shoes, I decided this outfit needed complementary shoes! What do you think?
I wear a lot of red and blue, so I expect these shoes to serve me well!
It turns out that even a simple sheath can take a lot of time to make when one is using couture techniques: underlining of silk organza; interior seams catch-stitched; hand-picked zipper; instead of facings, neck and armholes finished with lining-abutted edges, then pick-stitched for stability. The silk charmeuse lining in the dress matches the jacket lining and is an extravagance, I will admit. But it feels heavenly, and adds a fluidity to the dress which is a good match for the butter-soft cashmere wool fashion fabric.
Shown with the jacket unbuttoned.
A close-up look…
… and another one.
And a partial back view.
I am happy I added the collar to the dress, as that extra detail seems to help the dress stand on its own if/when I take the jacket off. Framing the face is always a good fashion decision, and I think the collar helps in that regard.
Just the dress!
So happy this is finished!
I consider finishing this outfit a major accomplishment! So what’s next? Something easy or something more complex? Those questions to be answered soon, with this caveat: it will most definitely be something for Spring/Summer!
Details:
Navy blue Cashmere fashion fabric: Britex Fabrics, San Francisco, CA
Silk charmeuse lining fabric: Britex Fabrics
Buttons: vintage Ultra Kraft, ca. 1950s
Shoes: Ferragamo
Patterns: Jacket: vintage Jo Mattli Vogue Designer pattern; Dress: vintage Vogue blouse pattern combined with new Butterick dress pattern
fiftydresses 
A luxurious couture outfit in cashmere and silk. I would love to slip on your dress with its gorgeous collar with bound button detail. I bet it feels fantastic!
Thanks, Kate! It definitely feels luxurious to slip on…
A stunning and clearly well-made outfit!
Thank you, Peggy. I expect to wear it for many years!
The dress and jacket are beautiful! And… the Ferragamos are perfect!
Glad you like the shoes! They were a splurge, but sometimes one just has to do these things!
Very classy and elegant! Beautiful detail.
Thank you, Tricia! I feel good in this outfit – and that’s always a good test.
I love your pattern matching and attention to detail. Hope it comes out of storage in early fall and gets a lot of wear till the weather turns hot — navy is a great, multi-season color — and you earned a pretty lining just for your own pleasure!
Isn’t navy such a great color? I love it, although it makes taking photos a little difficult. The details were the fun part of this project!
Beautiful outfit, head to toe! You are so right about the collar framing the face, it’s a lovely use of that extra button. Your suit is a work of art, from the catch stitched insides to the perfect plaid matching on the outside!
Thank you, Marianne, for your lovely comment. Sometimes it’s the inside details and the small outside details that add the most.
Perfection, as usual! Love the addition of the collar on your dress!
Thanks, Cissie! I like the collar, too, and I am glad I added it.
Glorious! Love the collar on your dress too.
Thanks and thanks!
The collar detail is wonderful! And fabulous plaid matching for the entire outfit! It just makes the obsessive print matcher in me happy. =)
I make everything extra complicated too! Currently, I’m obsessively matching a gingham dress for myself (from a vintage pattern I bought from The Vintage Traveler). Before that, I matched the print on a ’40s style dress so well, you can’t see the cool seam lines – so I have to make another one in a solid color to show off the seams. (Eventually, I will get around to blogging…)
What is it about matching plaids and seams that is so captivating? I love the challenge of it, and then I am so glad if it all works out!
Great job on this whole project! And the shoes are great too! Enjoy 🙂
Thank you! The shoes were the icing on the cake for me!
Amazing matching, the lines flow from the jacket to the dress. I love the collar, although the dress has a very up to date look, the collar is such a vintage detail. Beautiful job.
Thank you! I had the same thought about the collar – vintage-inspired, but still contemporary. Your endorsement is appreciated.
Love it! Definitely a great accomplishment.
Thank you so much – it feels like an accomplishment, but that’s one of the joys of sewing, I think. I like working toward a finished product that I can hopefully be happy with!
What a gorgeous dress and jacket! I’ve enjoyed following your progress and seeing the outcome. Very inspiring. Thank you.
Thank you for following so diligently, Bernice, and thanks for your lovely comment!
Wow! Gorgeous from tip to toe…literally! I’m having a flashback to the “ladies that lunch”,Jackie O and that gang, stepping out from LaGrenouille in NYC circa 1969! You did a wonderful job and are an inspiration to me. Lately I have put aside my rather complicated protects in favor of the jiffy ones and although it may be practical, it leaves me a bit sad for the days I took on something similar to what you accomplished here. So I just may start in on something soon!
Your comment, Marguerite, makes me feel wonderful! Thank you! I’ll feel even more wonderful if you do tackle one of those more complicated projects and tell me all about it!
Very pretty and so well made! I love the collar on the dress!
I am delighted that you like the collar, too! Thanks, Linda!
I’m fascinated by the high form of sewing you use. You may not be aware of this, but you’re part of the slow revolution and a subversive with your impeccably made, above fashion, creations.