When I purchased this sateen, jacquard-woven fabric from Mendel Goldberg a couple of years ago, I wasn’t sure what it would eventually become. It had a wide repeat to the design (which is something to consider when you know you are facing considerable matching of the design), but it was a lovely 60” wide. I bought just 2 yards (it was expensive) and hoped I would have enough fabric to finagle something.
First I thought I would make a midi-skirt to wear with a pretty silk blouse or something. I even got so far as to make a muslin for a longish skirt, but it just wasn’t going to work. I didn’t have enough fabric to match the design and create the skirt I wanted. The next task would be to find a dress pattern which would work. I kind of viewed this fabric as a good Fall and Spring transition weight, so I wanted sleeves. And I wanted a pattern which would show off the circle design to its best effect. One of the patterns in my collection which I have seemed to dwell on frequently is this one:
I like the styling of both the dress and the coat. I thought I’d take a stab at eyeballing the pattern on my fabric, to see if it might work. Well, it was going to be a squeaker, but I thought I could manage to get the dress out of the yardage I had – and match all those circles and dots as much as possible.
One thing I had to consider was the placement of the large dots and the smaller dots on my body. Working with dots can be a little tricky – you certainly don’t want prominent dots on top of each bust apex, for example, and a row of large dots around the waist might not be all that flattering. I thought the row of the largest dots would be best as an anchor at the hemline. That would place the wide band of smaller dots just over the waistline and somewhat below. This configuration would place one medium size dot over one bust, but I was okay with that since the dot on the other side was off to the side, and therefore not symmetrical. I also liked the repeat row of largest dots across the upper chest where they were not too obvious. And – the sleeves followed the line of varying size dots in a pleasing manner, I thought. It turned out, I had just enough fabric to get things lined up properly – except for the front facing. No way could I match that to the front of the dress.
Now, obviously the facing does not show on the right side of the dress. Still, I like to match across seams if possible. Which it wasn’t. I had to give myself permission to have a mismatched facing, and then I moved on. (I forgot to take a picture of the facing, unfortunately.)
A word or two about the fabric before I go on. According to Fairchild’s Dictionary of Fashion, (Third edition, by Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta and Phyllis Tortora, Fairchild Publications, Inc., New York, New York, c2003, page 395) sateen is a “smooth glossy cotton fabric made in the sateen weave with floating crosswise yarns on the right side, giving a lustrous finish.” This fabric is a combination of cotton sateen, with circles created by a damask weave on a jacquard loom. It makes for a striking fabric. And I think the fact it is done in navy blue makes the contrast more definitive. Christian Dior was a fan of navy blue, calling it “the only one [color] which can ever compete with black, it has all the same qualities.” (The Little Dictionary of Fashion, Abrams, N.Y., 2007, page 14). It is a wonderfully versatile color.
I made a few changes to the pattern. I cut the neckline a little wider, I shortened the sleeves by a couple of inches, and the big change was I lined the dress in a lovely silk batiste I purchased at Farmhouse Fabrics. (The pattern did not have instructions or pattern pieces for a lining.) The pleat in the front of the dress was a bit tricky to line, but I figured it out after quite a bit of thought. By the way, I underlined the dress with silk organza.
One more thing about the pattern and the dress. With the pleat in the front of the dress which extends to the hem, it gives the appearance of a coat dress. However, it is not. Again Fairchild’s gives us a precise definition of a coat dress: “Dress fastened down front from neck to hem, like a coat, in single- or double-breasted style, either belted or unbelted. A classic since the 1930s.” ibid., page 84. Someday I’ll make a coatdress, but this was not it.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I made this dress to wear on my Paris trip, but alas, I never had the opportunity to do so. I feel certain it will eventually get its debut, but not in Paris!
fiftydresses 
I really like so many (or maybe all) of the things you make, but this one is absolutely divine! I’m so glad you could eke it out of the yardage you had. Very classy.
Thank you so much, Dana. I was very happy with how this dress turned out (which isn’t always the case, I might add!)
I love your gold buttons. All you need is to wear a simple gold necklace and earrings with this dress and you’d make heads turn. Congratulations with picking a simple, yet elegant, dress style for your lovely circles and circles fabric. It’s another perfect garment.
I just knew this dress needed gold buttons – white would have been too stark, navy boring, multi-colored would be distracting. And that’s exactly what I thought – gold necklace and earrings should complete the look. Not so sure heads will turn, but a girl can always dream! Thanks for your comment!
Dear fiftydresses,
Thank you for your lovely detailed blog post!
Farmhouse Fabrics link didn’t work, fyi.
Wishing you well,
Caroline Beckenhaupt
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Thank you, Caroline! (I think Farmhouse Fabrics was having some website work being done when I tried to set the link. I thought I had erased the faulty link, but apparently not. Thanks for the heads up.)
I need to sit down and study what I keep doing wrong since my comments disappear. I have always liked almost-coat-dress styles: they add authority to femininity. Your fabric is well worth the investment. What you made of it is richly gorgeous. Lovely. May you have mild weather to wear it a lot. Stay cool this summer.
Thank you so much, Mery! If I had nickel for every time there is some sort of technical glitch, I’d be able to buy even more expensive fabric. Hopefully this kind and thoughtful comment will stay for eternity!
What a beautiful dress and pattern!
Thank you so much, Susan!
Lovely!
Thank you, Gayle!
Beautiful dress! And clever title!
Many, many thanks for your lovely comment!
Lovely dress!
Thank you, Kathy!
It’s a perfect dress to wear to a concert (not the Taylor Swift kind) or the ballet.
A concert or the ballet would be a lovely outing in this dress – yes!
This is BEAUTIFUL, Karen! You really had to put on your thinking cap for this one! …Or your thinking- outside- the- box- chapeau!! I love the shorter sleeves, contrasting buttons, and heavenly fabric! Oh my!!! When do we get to see the designer in her frock??? What shoes will compliment this beauty??? (…the beauty wearing the dress OR the beauty of the dress???😉)
Hope all is well in Wyoming, and you have avoided this heat wave!! Hugs and love to you and Tom!! Send pictures! Janney
Thank you again, Janney! I have a feeling you might see this dress in person one day, still to be determined! XXOO
Gorgeous! Wish we could see a photo of you modeling this! You worked a lovely garment out of 2 yards!
I had my heart set on being photographed in Paris in this dress. When that didn’t happen, it was put on the back burner, as they say. My apologies. Thank you for commenting!
I’m closing
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