Tag Archives: diy

Pink Stripes 

“You can never go wrong with a little pink… a lot works for me.” Dana Dalgetty

It is extremely difficult for me to resist a bubblegum pink fabric.  And if it is a stripe, too, the odds are very good that fabric will end up in my sewing room.  So it was with this silk and cotton blend found on the website of Mendel Goldberg Fabrics.

Screenshot

I purchased it last summer during a 20% off sale, and when it arrived, I knew I had made the right decision – although the stripes were a bit bolder in person than I anticipated.  As usual, I wasn’t sure what I was going to make – a coat? a dress? a skirt?  I needed more thinking time so I tucked it away until this Spring.  In the meantime, I purchased this vintage Vogue pattern which I saw as a good basic design which could be easily changed, adapted and altered.  

Take note of those curved darts on the bodice, as I will mention them again.

I like dress designs which have some “back“ interest, here the buttoned half belt.  Although I loved the sleeveless view, I have become less comfortable wearing sleeveless dresses as I have gotten older.  Thus, I was drawn to the short-sleeved view (C), knowing I could easily lengthen the sleeves to reach almost to the elbow, if that seemed the way to go.  Thus, it was a logical progression to imagine the pink striped fabric made up in this design, despite the note on the pattern “Not suitable for striped fabrics.” 

I wasn’t quite ready to forge ahead, however.  My fabric was such a bold stripe, I feared a horizontal orientation of the fabric would be too much, but a vertical orientation was equally problematic.  I went to my Pinterest feed to get some inspiration and in no time at all, the lightbulb went off in my head.  The dress needed a combination horizontal and vertical orientation.  I made this quick sketch, and I knew I had the solution I needed.  

I took these quick photos after I had worn the dress to a party, wrinkles and all. My apologies for the unkempt appearance of the dress!

I set about making a muslin/toile for fitting, and then I hit a brick wall.  Those curved darts you see on the pattern bodice just were not flattering to me, despite my working and reworking them multiple times.  I finally gave up.  I would need to find a substitute pattern for the bodice front and make it work with the bodice back toile which I had fitted successfully.  This was all terribly time-consuming, as you can imagine, but I finally was able to find an existing bodice front in my stash of patterns/toiles which, fingers crossed, would work.  I didn’t know how well it would work until I had the happy surprise of seeing the darts feed into the bold stripes successfully. 

Darts, of course, distort side seams, but this distortion somehow adds to the appearance of the front bodice. I suspect the “unsuitability” of striped fabrics was because of that curved dart, which I unknowingly eliminated when I changed the bodice front.

What was not as successful was the proper alignment of the buttons on the back belt to the center of the dress. That is one of the many downsides of fitting oneself – I could not see what I was doing, and although I measured and fiddled, I was still off by a couple of inches.  

I did a hand-picked lapped zipper and the buttons are vintage mother of pearl from my collection.
While we are talking details, here is the top of the sleeve. I used a top dart to take in the necessary fullness when setting in the sleeve. This is an alteration I make frequently to accommodate my prominent shoulders.

I lined the entire dress with a soft cotton batiste which complimented the softness of my fabric, adding a little more opaqueness to the finished dress.  I did not use an underlining, reasoning that more structure would not be conducive to the soft flow I wanted in this garment.

A word here about the panel for the hem.   Wow, was I tight on fabric!  I thought the panel should feature one bold pink stripe, bordered by “half” white stripes.  I barely had enough fabric to make this happen, and because the width of the skirt was just a bit bigger than the width of the fabric, I had to piece that panel.  Whew, I just made it.  Here is all the fabric I had left over:

The seaming of the two panel pieces close to the center back is barely visible! Can you see it?

 I was able to wear this dress for two events in May, feeling perfectly dressed for both of them.  

And that little bit of left-over fabric?  I had plans for that, too, which I will share in a future post.  

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Filed under Buttons - choosing the right ones, couture construction, Uncategorized, vintage Vogue patterns from the 1970s

A Long Silence

Silence may indeed be “golden” except when one is trying to maintain some regularity in writing a blog.  My silence this past Fall and into the end of the year was not intentional. I actually got as far as starting a new post in November on a “Blouse for Fall” only to have its completion thwarted by more pressing priorities.  Such is life, as all of us know.  So now, in this sparkling new year we have entered, I have the opportunity to play some long overdue catch-up.  

It is at this time of year when I like to reflect on my sewing from the year just past.  And glaringly, the truth is I was not very productive.  Here is what I made:

  1. Short black wool jacket, ostensibly to wear with a wool sheath dress made two years ago.    

I suspect this jacket will prove to be more versatile than I have expected.  Its jewel neckline will lend itself to scarves, and its solid black color will be a good canvas for brooches or other fabric flowers.  

 2. A birthday/sundress for each of my two granddaughters.

I generally do not post on my blog about sewing for my granddaughters, due to the limited audience for the subject.  The girls requested dresses which they could wear “off the shoulder.” So of course, I obliged!

 3. A pink striped casual blouse.

Pale pink is always a good idea.

  4. A floral summer dress. 

I was happy to use this fabric which had been long in my sewing queue.

 5. Fun floral skirts for each of my granddaughters.

I used “kits” from Farmhouse Fabrics for each of these skirts.  They garnered blue ribbons and a “Best of Division” at our local county fair this past summer.  Full disclosure:  there wasn’t much competition!

  6. My 50th Anniversary linen dress made with vintage fabric.

I’m not sure I have ever made a dress which has given me more personal satisfaction than this one.  Making this dress was truly a dream come true.

  7. A fuchsia-pink silk shirtdress.

I persevered through the tricky construction of this dress made with a slinky silk jacquard charmeuse.  I had the opportunity to wear it twice this past Fall.  Perhaps the trending, pink “Barbie theme” contributed, but this dress proved to be a magnet for compliments at each wearing.  How rewarding after all the trouble it gave me! 

  8. A blouse for Fall, using some amazing vintage buttons.

I will finally admit I will never get tired of making or wearing cotton blouses. 

  9. And some miscellaneous (and minor) gift and holiday sewing.

That’s it!  

And I’m perfectly fine with it.  I did what I could, and three of my projects had high priority (my girls’ birthday dresses, my anniversary dress, and my pink shirtdress).  Completing them was very satisfying.  

So what about my last make of the year – that blouse for Fall?  

It’s very orange.  And with the pheasant motif, it is very autumnal.  However, with Fall undoubtably being my favorite season, it seemed fitting to have a piece in my blouse wardrobe devoted to that time of year.

I found the fabric on the website of Emma One Sock Fabrics a couple of years ago.   It is a beautiful cotton with a very slight stretch to it.  The quality is superb, being silky soft and very easy to sew.  The Herringbone printed background makes it look like a much heavier fabric than it really is.

I debated on the style bouse to make, thinking a bow blouse would be lovely.  However, in order to make this as versatile and wearable as possible, I defaulted to my regular shirt/blouse pattern, which I have altered and tweaked many times.

Here is that blouse pattern I have used over and over.

   I also thought this pattern would be the one most likely to show off the buttons I intended to use with the fabric.  

I can’t remember what came first – the fabric or the buttons.  Somehow I was lucky enough to find these vintage Ultra Kraft buttons with their feather motifs.  Just bordering on a bit too big for a blouse, these buttons seemed to balance the large pheasant groupings, making both fabric and buttons a good match.  I didn’t realize until I had finished the blouse how much the silver in the buttons picks up the lighter colors in the feathers of the pheasants.  There is a little “sparkle” in there!

I was able to wear this blouse a couple of times in season.  Now it seems a long time away until its next wearing…  

Which begs the question: what will transpire in the ensuing months – between now and then?  I will wait and see how and when inspiration hits.  What about you?  

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Filed under Blouses, Buttons - choosing the right ones, Uncategorized, vintage buttons