Red Letter Day: “A day that is pleasantly noteworthy or memorable.” (Cambridge Languages)
Day Dress: “The perfect all-in-one outfit, a day dress is a versatile and fashionable way to look chic and stay comfortable at the same time.”
Any day I finish a lengthy project (successfully) is definitely a “red letter day.” This dress just happens to be red, adorned with letters, and “back in the day,” as they say, it would have been considered a “day-dress,” although the apt description above is actually from a current website. (DavidJones.com)
I go into a little bit of how this dress evolved in my last post. But of course there were many more decisions to be made along the way. I had to decide:
- Do I underline this crepe de chine?
- If I underline it, what do I use for my underlining fabric?
- Do I also line this dress?
- If I line it, do I also line the sleeves?
- The blouse pattern has floating, released darts at the waist. Do I use that technique for this pattern transformed into a dress?
- What color and type of buttons will most enhance the fabric?
- Do I make bound buttonholes or machine-stitched ones?
So, let’s start at the beginning. Because this was a very soft, fluid, lightweight crepe de chine, I thought it best to underline it. My normal go-to for underlining – silk organza – would have reduced the fluidity of the silk, so I ruled that out. Cotton batiste just did not seem the way to go. When I found a silk batiste on the website for Farmhouse Fabrics, I knew I had my solution.
However, even with the ethereal nature of the silk batiste, I decided not to underline (or line) the sleeves. I wanted them to retain their uninhibited flow.
Once I had the underlining basted to the fashion fabric, I weighed whether or not to line the body of the dress. I went with my gut feeling about this and decided to line it with a soft and lightweight red silk crepe de chine – almost a perfect match in color, as is evident in the above picture – which I purchased from Emma One Sock Fabrics.
In doing so, I eliminated the front and neck facings which were replaced with the solid red lining.
I had worked out the floating dart question in my muslin/toile and decided to use them for the dress. This left above the waist “blousy” and made it more fitted below the waist.
Buttons are always one of my favorite parts of a project. I simply love looking for buttons – and I really love finding the perfect ones. In this case, I knew I needed a large quantity – at least 10, depending on the size I found. I did not think red buttons would do anything to enhance the dress, and I thought white pearl buttons would be too much of a contrast. But then I found these buttons on eBay:
They are probably from the 1940s, cut glass, made in Czechoslovakia. The card held 12 buttons, a good quantity for my purpose. I think of these buttons as “small, but mighty.” They provide the right contrast, and the faceted surface picks up the shimmer from the slight jacquard weave in the fabric. I think they are perfect!
And finally, bound or machine-made buttonholes? I did a sample of each. I have recently started using my automatic buttonholer for my 1951 Singer Featherweight, and I must say, it is an engineering marvel. It makes such amazing, precise buttonholes. And although I do love bound buttonholes, I decided in this instance I would be happier with machine-made ones.
So that about sums it up. I had just barely enough fabric to eke out this dress (which seems to be a theme with me!), so I think it was meant to be. Here’s to Red Letter Days – and the dresses which make them happy.
fiftydresses 
Wow!! that is the smartest dress, looks stunning on you, one of your best.
Well done, just beautiful a real head turner.
Thank you, Patricia. I was so fortunate to find the red silk – it makes quite the statement!
Fabulous!
Thank you, Anne. That is so sweet!
I’m a big dress fan and think it’s a shame more women don’t wear them and see how adaptable they can be, depending on the accessories you team them with. This is an elegant “day dress”. Beautifully made and no doubt will be much admired and envied!
I, too, wish more women wore dresses. I view it as a privilege! Thank you, Donna – I enjoyed your comment.
I remember when you first showed this fabric. The dress is fabulous and details are perfect. I agree that the blue buttons compliment the fabric beautifully; machine buttonholes were the right choice. I’ve also started using silk or silk/cotton batiste as underlining because, as you noted, silk organza can be too crisp for the desired effect. Beautiful job.
Thanks, Mary. I was so delighted with the silk batiste as the underlining. This will not the last time I use it! Thanks so much for your supportive words!
Luv It!
Thanks!!!
Your dress is sublime! And I love the shoes! This was another wonderful post. xo
Thank you, Nancy – and it’s always nice when just the right shoes are in the closet already!
It’s just perfect. All your details make the dress as a whole just right. Red is a happy color. (I think I once heard that’s a common Japanese wedding dress color.) This season in particular needs a bit of brightening up, so I hope you wear it as often as possible. And the letters are so fun.
Thanks, Mery! I agree – red is happy, and I intend to be happy when I am wearing this dress! Happy Thanksgiving across the miles to you.
Old sewing machines are an engineering marvel, and these buttonholes prove it! I love the style you chose for this fabric, and the belt kit worked perfectly. Just seeing this dress in your closet has got to make you smile. Fabulous workmanship as always!
Thank you, Kathy. This dress does brighten up the closet, even if I have no place to wear it right now! You know, for years I stayed away from the buttonhole attachment for my Feathwerweight as it looked intimidating. Go figure?? Now it is so much fun to use – and easy! And an amazing piece of machinery.
I like the vintage buttons. I often haunt the eBay UK site for silver. The shipping cost is often the same as shipping within the US. I’ve noticed sterling silver button sets. Most are only 6 buttons but there are some with more. I’ve also seen antique London police buttons, etc. I only mention this because you often include unique flourishes to your projects. Many thanks for the interesting blog; I read every posting.
Best,
JE
Thank you, John. I can lost looking for buttons online. The trick is to find the right buttons in the right quantity – not always easy. Thank you so much for reading my blog.
Beautiful dress, so elegant like you. I love reading your technique and process of decision making. Always love a Red dress and yours is unique.
Thank you, Pat, for this lovely comment.
This is gorgeous. Your sewing in an inspiration.
Thanks so much! What a nice compliment.
Perfectly lovely dress. You are adorable!
Thank you, Teri! What a fun comment to read.
A really beautiful dress! The buttons are perfect also!
Thank you so much for your detailed post about it!
Thanks, Kati! Now if my husband’s loose and detached buttons were as pretty as these blue ones, I might be more willing to sew his back on!
You look lovely in your new red dress! Beautifully done too! And, I just LOVE those flats!
Thank you, Sew Divine! The shoes just happened to be perfect – more luck than planning.
What a BEAUTIFUL dress! You are such a lovely lady. I always enjoy your posts. Keep them coming and Happy Fall.
Thank you so much, Terri. Your comment made my day! Happy Fall to you, too!
Wonderful
Thank you, Betty!!
Love the red! and the letters are very cute! I love Featherweights too, I have one myself!
Thanks, Linda. Yes, Featherweights are the best!
Beautiful work! And those shoes! ! ! ! ! Perfection!
Thank you, Barb!